In 2008 this charming restaurant near Mainz confirmed its 1 star Michelin rating. But even without knowing this (somehow we skipped Michelin ratings at our first visit) our last visit was appealing enough to make us return. What struck again was this relaxed atmosphere without any stiffness: the mix of white walls and bright woods has an appeasing effect on the human mood, and of course the service is always considerate, charming and never distant. There is just no reason not to feel at ease here. And even so the whole place always radiates the classiness of a fine dining restaurant.
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Breads and different salts. Californian Chardonnay salt was an interesting discovery.
Superb amuse with compliments of the kitchen. Especially the quail candy on radicchio and small pear cubes was excellent. The pear was infused with a little ginger flavor. Loved it! The prawn ball on cucumber was also nice with a play on acidity on the cucumbers. But that quail…mmh
Green asparagus, tuna and sokeye salmon on wasabi cream, crunchy cannelloni and avocado. Nice play of textures and tastes although I would have loved a self explaining arrangement on the plate guiding me a little better through the ideal eating order. I’m not sure I got the best play out of it. Still a very refreshing starter full of flavors; maybe the salad on top wasn’t necessary…
Salad of spaghettini with seared lotte and greenpea-basil vinaigrette. Haven’t tried that one.
Cream cheese and artichoke filled ravioli with olive and balsamic vinegar dressing. Fruity and hearty, nice vinegar touch!
Bergamotte ice cream in pineapplesoup with milk rice espuma.
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Refreshing Trou Normand: at the same time fruity and mysteriously spiced.
Sole coated in spinach with olive-potato purée and estragon-mustard sauce. Incredibly juicy yet firm to the bite sole. The sauce was quite hearty but it worked.
Accompanied by a very elegant Philipp Kuhn Chardonnay from the Pfalz
Braised veal cheek in red wine, plum-filled “potato pockets”, celeriac puree. As expected, some extremely tender veal. Good play with the plum ravioli and the intense red wine sauce. Nice example of interpretation of a classic combination. No need to put anything molecular in here.
Curd Cheese soufflé with marinated blackberries and Grand Marnier ice cream. Gentle ending.
Delicious dessert wine with an elegant acidity and exotic fruit by Keller
This was a very satisfying dinner. One can also perfectly comprehend the one star Michelin rating. Frank Buchholz’ creativity was seizable with every single dish. Maybe even more could be possible: I feel there is space for more thought and sense in the execution of this admirable creativity. More precision in the play of tastes and textures is the one thing that would come to my mind. But who am I to argue. Again, this was a superb meal and I’m keen on seeing how this restaurant will develop.
PS: The à la carte selection of dishes is quite broad with something for every taste. The pricing might be on the lower end for 1 star restaurants; one should count approx. 70 Euro for a 3 course meal. The wine list is not too big but there is enough for everyone’s taste with a logical focus on regional growths from Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Nahe. Keller and Künstler aficionados will be satisfied, but also Burgundy is fairly represented. Concerning the pricing, the wine list offers quite some bottles between 25 and 35 Euro, and also several wines served by the glass.
