Chubby Hubby’s article on Ferran Adria’s tortilla recipe (April 2006) totally intrigued me, especially since Chubby Hubby himself reproduced the foam dish as perfectly as you can see on his pictures. So I decided to give it a try too. I knew that we had a siphon hidden somewhere in the back of the storing chamber of our kitchen.
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I have no clue which brand it is or whether it is usable for warm ingredients or not, but taking a look on it, it just felt like a good quality product.
So I went thoroughly through all the steps of the recipe posted by Chubby Hubby, and in the end I had a composition which could be described as follows: the onions were just perfect, sweet and smooth; I did a good job there. The emulsion of egg yolk was just too liquid.
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I mean it was perfectly bubbly when I finished whisking it, but when I put it on the onions, it just came apart and had a little “slimy” mouth feel. Also I put too much salt in it when it came to seasoning. Next, the foam came out of the siphon, tasting ok (here again I oversalted it), but the consistency wasn’t quite satisfying since it wasn’t as stiff as I thought it should be; what are the reasons? Maybe I didn’t shake the siphon enough, maybe it’s just the wrong kind of siphon, or I used the wrong kind of cream in the recipe (I used fresh cream from an organic milk producer)
Well, I was proud still. I could imagine the dish tasting excellent without the overdose of salt I put in it and I silently dared to think of some other changes. I would use the egg yolk of a hard boiled or a poached egg to reinforce the play with the textures (jammy for the onions, smooth for the egg yolk and creamy for the foam). Maybe as Chubby Hubby did it, add some bacon for some crunchiness.
Another variation of the dish could be to leave the onions away and shave some black truffles on top of it. What do you think?
