This 1er Cru “Les Champs-Gains” by domaine Potinet-Ampeau is not really my kind of White Burgundy. Not only is it overly oaked, but it is also oaked in a style that is particularly off putting. Not reminding butter or vanilla (which are the usual oak overdose tones) but rather some kind of dusty grey wood – made me think of the odd smell of scaffolding planks, of mold and dust. Well, quite unusual, and maybe as appealing to some as is the “wet sock” smell in some Vins Naturels, but it also covered up any type of charm or finesse the wine might have.
And it did have some charm underneath, I am quite sure. It showed through after 2 or 3 days in the open bottle. A good weight, some nice apple and lemon zest fruit with a good acidity kick. But after each sip, the wood-plank effect came back and I I simply couldn’t blank it out.
Am I to harsh here? Well, as always, it is also a matter of personal taste. Unfortunately I couldn’t find any other opinion about this wine but the retailer’s praise. Paradoxally the retailer described the nose as having an incredibly “dirty” minerality and insinuated “cult wine” potential. Funny how different perceptions can be.
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Well, maybe it’s just a cult wine in a weird phase.
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Would be great to have another opinion.
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