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All Posts from June, 2007

1976 Bullayer Sonneck Riesling Auslese , Josef Friederich, Mosel

Bullayer Sonneck

This is my next aged Riesling-bottle, this time from the very very good 1976 vintage. It’s an eBay bottle from some quite totally unknown estate in the Mosel region, since I striclty found nothing about it on the net.
Therefore, and also because lots of people don’t appreciate aged white, I got it for very little money.
It is an Auslese which is the third highest Prädikat and comes before the well-known sweet wine Prädikate such as Trockenbeerenauslese or Eiswein.
Auslese means that only the best grapes in the vineyard are selected and the mustweight should be at least 95 Oechsle degrees. Most generally a Auslese comes with relatively low alcohol and rather high residual sugar. Nowadays the trend is that there are more and more “trockene Auslesen” being made, which means dry Auslesen, but for a 1970’s wine one can almost be sure it is a nondry wine.
We had it at the end of a dinner as a final bottle without any food accompanying it. The wine had golden colour with an amber hue. In the nose some Edelfirne of course reminding wax and honey as well as some orange zest. On the palate it was at first striking how low the alcohol level was. There was no indication on the label about the alcohol (at that time it wasn’t mandatory) but it must have already been low and by now it had nearly completely disappeared. My guess would be something like 4 to 6 %, and it was such that one could have the impression to taste grapejuice actually. Nevertheless it had a long finish with a fresh minty note. All in all the wine was still in very good shape regarding oxidation and cork, but lacked a bit of structure as it seemed a bit watery sometimes and of course was short of alcohol. I think it would be best drunk as a refreshing and light starter drink before a dinner.
86 points

Categories: Germany,Mosel

Mit Albtraumwein den Traumpartner finden !


In Frankreich, dem grossen Land des grossen Weins kann man jetzt Dank billiger Plörre seinen Partner fürs Leben finden.

Wie denn das?

Auf den kitschigen Weinetiketten der Marke “Soif de Coeur” (zu Deutsch: Herzensdurst) befinden sich codes mit denen man auf der dazugehörigen Website einen gleichgesinnten liebeshungrigen Plörretrinker finden kann. Die Idee ist eigentlich ganz witzig und vielleicht bekommt das Sprichwort “In Vino Veritas” dadurch wieder einen ganz neuen Glanz. Aber hab ich nicht öfters gehört, dass man bei ausgiebigem Plörretrinken sein gegenüber nur schönsauft? Wahrscheinlich ist es sowieso besser sich Mut anzutrinken wenn man die Profile auf der Partnerwebsite durchblättert…
Ironischerweise fällt auf der Website auch der Satz “finde deinen Seelenverwandten!” – puh :=), das ist schon hart – findet man dort also seine Kumpels von der Trinkhalle wieder?
Wahrscheinlich gibt es für hoffnungslose Fälle bald auch Codes auf den Pastisflaschen :=).
Naja, nur die Liebe zählt!

PS: tatsächlich habe ich diese “Liebesweine” nie probiert und behaupte deswegen nur willkürlich dass es sich um Plörre handelt.
PPS: Wen es dennoch interessiert, es gibt den Wein in den Geschmacksrichtungen Cabernet-Merlot, Merlot-Cabernet als Rosé (vorsicht, nicht Cabernet-Merlot Rosé! Der Kenner merkt den Unterschied) und Sauvignon Blanc im nächsten französichen Supermarkt, und ich nehme an direkt neben der “Villageoise” im Tetrapack ;=)
Na dann, Prost!

Categories: Misc

1994 “Schloss Wallhausen” Riesling Auslese, Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg, Nahe

Porcelaine labeled Riesling

Since I am more and more interested in aged Rieslings now, I will try to taste some more bottles in the coming months.
As a starting shot I found a “medium-aged” Riesling from the Nahe, which was some kind of special-edition for celebrating the 250th birthday of the Höchster porcelaine manufacture.
Therefore the bottle wasn’t equipped with a regular paper label, but with a porcelaine badge instead featuring a drawing of the old manufacture. Only the back-label (which was a paper-label) informed ous that it was a 1994 Riesling Auslese from the Nahe, a smaller appellation named by a river which is an offset of the Rhine. The wine was made by the Prinz zu Salm Dallberg`sches Weingut, one of the oldest estates in Germany (first mentionned in 1200) which has always been owned by the same family.
We drank the bottle as a starter, which can often be a good purpose for aged Rieslings. It had a rather dark colour, more amber than golden. The nose wa clearly a matured Riesling nose with some Edelfirne reminding of bee-wax mixed with honey. On the palate it was rather dry with an iodic touch and medium acidity and later also a touch of spiciness. The finish was long with a slightly fresh note and without bitterness.
This Auslese was still very nicely drinkable, more reminding a good sherry than a fruity white, but this is one of the many facettes a Riesling can have.
85 points

Categories: Germany,Nahe

“Roter Hang”, a very special wine tasting


Imagine a vineyard on a rather steep hill which starts above a little wine-town, and then in a generous curve embraces the Rhine.
Imagine a multitude of tiny paths finding their ways up and down and crossing themselves through this generous arch of slopes.
Imagine this vineyard bearing the noble Riesling grape and to be very special in its soil type and rather ideal in its sun exposition. And finally imagine that each year the 28 winemakers which share this vineyard make a presentation on 7 stands dispersed on the hill, where you could taste some 70 wines from the soils you’re standing on.
Welcome to the “Roter Hang”, the Red Hillside, which becomes a winelovers paradise for one weekend.
The Roter Hang is located in Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine region and represents on of the most prestigious vineyards of the region. Actually, Rheinhessen was for a long time known for average wines and only in the last few years it started to show its real potential, lead by some star wine estates such as Gunderloch or Keller.

IMG_0544 (Large)

My brother and I couldn’t leave this opportunity out and rushed to Nierstein, which is a very traditionnal small vintners village packed with lots of ambitious winemakers. We parked our car and walked up the hill to the so called “Riesling lounge” on the Western edge of the Red Hill, which somewhat represents the base camp to the wine presentation. There, at the first pavillon, you could buy your wine glass which you than carry along to the 6 other pavillons and bring home as a souvenir at the end of the day. Each pavillon stands for one to three single-“Lagen” within the Roter Hang and offers 10 wines in a mixed selection from different estates. In order to be able to taste more of all these delicious wines it was very convenient that one could chose to either have a small 0,1 or even smaller 0,05l glass.
We started at the “base-camp” then by tasting the “Orbel”, “Glöck” and “Heiligenbaum” wines and noted down some adjectives such as “earthy”,”caramell” and “filgrane” and tingled on to the next pavillon which was a hundred meters of walk through the vineyards away. There we poured the next glasses of Riesling from two sites promising very “mineral” and “racy” Rieslings according to the small booklet – we weren’t disappointed. We started to feel the Riesling flowing within our bodies by now and the burning sun, the 30 degrees air temperature helped us to realize how well exposed this site is and how happy these fellow Riesling plants must be (we hence started a conversation with the plants =)). But we are fighters and the shiny sun shouldn’t be a barrier to taste more of these delightful beverages. Not even for trying one or two sweet wines. I especially remember a sweet Auslese from Gunderloch, one of the most prestigious winemakers of the event (this was Pavillon 4 and the Rothenberg site..I think..*hicks*), – it had an exotic smell of mangoes and pineapple and was wonderfully balanced, with enough acidity to face 115g/l of residual sugar (and what a bargain at 1,50€ for a glass!).
Another outstanding estate at this tasting was Heyl zu Herrnsheim, which had wines offered at several stands (2004 Spätlese -Baron Heyl was remarkable). But what was striking was that of all the wines we tried, none was disappointing. And we tried plenty. (Ok, only 17 of the 70 offered, but one shouldn’t abuse ;=)) They all had a unique touch coming from that red slate soil which you can see surfacing at several points on the trail. Oh, and that’s obviously the reason the vineyard is called “Red Hillside”, which I should rather have written at the start of the article, but since you’re all smart guys, I believe you guessed that already.
So this was really a nice experience and if you’re there next year in the beginning of june I’d strongly recommend you to have a look at it. (see the official website of the Roter Hang)

…on the pictures below: the red slate, the church of Nierstein emerging in the vineyard, a glass of golden Auslese, and “look how developed these grapes already are!”…


2003 Laumersheimer Kappellenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken, Weingut Knipser, Pfalz

Knipser Winelabel closeup

An einem lauen gewittrigen Sommerabend gibt es doch nichts schöneres als einen kühlen, saftigen Riesling. Und dann war da ja noch diese Knipser-Flasche die schon eine Weile im Keller schlummerte und auf Ihren grossen Einsatz wartete . Sie stammt von der Lage Kappellenberg, aus dem seiner Weissweine wegen nicht so bekanntem Laumersheim, jedoch von einem Winzer der in dieser Gegend bekannterweise einige sehr erfolgreiche Weine (jedoch vor allem Spätburgunder) produziert.

Die Nase ist überwiegend Citrus-betont mit einer deutlichen Limetten-Note die auch irgendwie etwas seifiges hat… man muss es halt mögen. Am Gaumen erscheint der Wein auch sehr limmettenhaft mit einer relativ süßen Frucht für eine trockene Spätlese. Ich hatte den Wein irgendwie trockener in Erinnerung. Nicht desto trotz hat er einen schönen saftigen und mund-maulfüllenden Körper mit einer gut eingebauten Säure die dem Wein viel Schmelz verleiht. Nach einiger Zeit erscheint der Körper vielschichtiger mit mineralischen Anklängen. Insgesamt ein gelungener Riesling der jedoch für meinen Geschmack ein Tick zu süss war und auch fast übertrieben nach Limette schmeckt. Jedoch habe ich nun die Erkenntniss, dass der Wein auch gut zum Dessert passen könnte, wie zum Beispiel zu einer Zitronencreme.
88 Punkte.

Categories: Germany,Pfalz

Kampot Pepper from Cambodia


This is a small porcelaine recipient with Kampot pepper, appparently a very reknown black pepper variety, which my brother brought me from Cambodia (Thanks Felix)
Does anyone know about it?

Categories: Food