Pettenthal, certainly one of Germany’s most en vogue Riesling-vineyards these last years is one of various styles. Some of its wines are more zesty, others more herbal. If these differences are rather linked to micro-Terroirs, or to the winemaker’s signature is still a mystery to me. But of course, in a strict sense, the winemaker is part of the Terroir definition anyway so logically it’s inevitable to have various styles with the exact same soil.
Anyhow, I don’t want to get into Terroir-talk here. What I actually want to say is that the Pettenthal wine in question here – Kühling Gillot‘s Great Growth Riesling – has always been one on the more herbal and “masculine” side. This 2006 vintage is a wine I had on several occasions already since I bought a couple of bottles back in 2007. They always held for a great experience. And so it was again today. Read the rest of this entry »
On tuesday, Martin of Berlinkitchen offered me to join him and Arthurs Tochter for a visit at Weingut Wagner-Stempel in Rheinhessen. A tempting offer I couldn’t resist.
Daniel Wagner is a very down-to-earth man and, if that word exists, also a selfmade-winemaker. He took over the parental estate in the 1990’s and converted it from a mainly agricultural estate with wheat and sugar beets to a high quality winery. Of course they did also make wine before, but Daniel was the one in the family who made it a priority and the main focus of the estate.
And today, only some 20 years later, he’s one of the shooting stars of the VDP, which he joined in 2004. But he’s still that down-to-earth family man. A man who made us a warm-hearted welcome when we arrived for the first time on his estate. He offered us a tour of his vineyards in his old VW bus, let us have lunch with his family and the team and gave us a thorough taste of his wine collection while telling his story. Read the rest of this entry »
Already 2011 and I’m still talking about Christmas Wines. But of course there are valid reasons for this delay: 1) Those are busy days spent in the kitchen and with friends 2) the number of bottles indulged in that time are “above average” . So here are a few more wines from the Christmas holidays.
2009 Hubacker GG, Weingut Keller – This Riesling from a great terroir and vintage is still a baby. Of course I knew that before I uncorked it, but sometimes curiosity wins. Acidity is still to the fore right now but a long decant somewhat helps. Still, the wine feels tight at first, like a thin steel bullet with lots of minerality. But fruit comes up more with each sip: Peach and later some wild herbs are a nice composition. Incredible how slim and at the same time compact and flavour-loaded this wine appears. Lots of substance, nice presence on the palate and oh what a great length. Empties itself on its own but will be an even greater wine in 2-3 years time! ++
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Was eine Granate! Ich weiß, das haben schon viele über die Weine von Klaus-Peter Keller gesagt aber bis heute bin ich nur selten in den Genuß seiner grossen Gewächse gekommen. Und wenn man dann eine ganze Flasche in Ruhe genießen kann, geht einem so ein Ausruf schonmal reflexartig über die Lippen.
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Ein echter Power-Weissburgunder vom jungen Winzer Florian Fauth, der einige Top-Lagen in Rheinhessen bewirtschaftet. Der Wein braucht aber definitiv noch etwas Zeit – ist ungestüm. Bei der nächsten Flasche gibt es eine ausführlichere Beschreibung.
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Das Wort “Aufbruchsstimmung” ist fast schon pures Understatement wenn man versucht den Weinort Nierstein zu beschreiben. Neben einigen mittlerweile sehr bekannten Weingütern erklimmen viele kleinere rapide die Qualitätsleiter.
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Natürlich ist das mit viel Arbeit verbunden. Aber wenn man die Feierlaune der Niersteiner erlebt dann erkennt man, dass auch viel Freude und stolz mit im Spiel ist.
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