I’ve had many many Terroir wines lately, including lots of so called Vins Naturels which I enjoyed much. So I thought it might be interesting to abruptly go back to a New World modern wine and feel the big contrast between these diametrically opposed wine categories…
I grabbed a bottle of Peter Sissek’s Psi, one of his latest endeavours in the Ribera region of Spain. Of course, I know that Spain isn’t quite New World from a geographic point of view, but when analyzing the style, especially the wines from Ribera del Duero are not very far from the fruit- and oak-driven overseas specimens.
The nose is a little intriguing. It is unmistakebly on oak, but this espression is quite unknown to me. It reminds me of cleared butter, or Gee (in India) and I wonder how they’r obtaining this: a secret mix of different Barrel types? Anyhow, I like originality and enjoy smelling this new aroma. Of course the typical Tempranillo fruit is also in the nose, with red and black berries and later some alcohol also comes through.
On the palate, it shows a nice weight, light and with fine grained tannins at the same time. This still needs a year or 2 to become entirely like silk. Then the wine falls off a bit on the mid-palate, feeling much lighter there. But maybe that’s the finesse one has been missing in some Spanish wines? For a second I thought this felt incoherent but then my palate got used to it. In the finish the aromatics linger on on the fruit but without much complexity, with maybe some liquorice in the back end.
This wine definitely has appeal, albeit in a modern sense of the term. But I wouldn’t call it an oak monster or put it with the kinds of New World wines I despise. Indeed, Peter Sissek managed to create an elegantly balanced wine here, within the mainstream but with enough originality for appearing special- perfect for many occasions.Google+