These last weeks I really didn’t blog much and there are a few things I’d like to catch up on. Most importantly I’d like to transcript the few notes I made about Christmann’s 2007 Rieslings when I attended the vintage tasting at the estate in Gimmeldingen.
I tried some of the wines before at the VDP tasting and also at a restaurant and was quite thrilled with those, in particular with the basic Gutsriesling but also with the Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch.
Surprisingly when I retried those wines here a few weeks later they seemed totally different.
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So either these wines are going through different phases very quickly or my palate is going through difficult phases. Ok, let’s just say it’s my palate.
For the basic Riesling, it just didn’t sweep me off my feet this time… and I can’t tell why, it simply wasn’t as harmonious and luscious anymore, but rather austere. Also the 2 other basics, the Ruppertsberg and Gimmeldingen Rieslings appeared a bit stiff, with a rather electric acidity in a filigree frame with contained fruit. I don’t think that these wines are bad, but they just seemed a bit closed now. They clearly have the potential of good wines with loads of minerality, a vibrant acidity and elegant fruit, but somehow these components don’t come together yet to form a well balanced wine.
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But I’ve heard before that Christmann’s wines need more time than others to attain maturity and have therefore no real worries. I’m just so surprised that I perceived them so dramatically different on 2 occasions.
But there were more wines that seemed a bit closed. From the classified Lagenweine the Ruppertsbeger Linsenbusch which amazed me so much at restaurant Buchholz, just didn’t seem so charming and lively suddenly. Such was the case also for Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten and the Gimmeldinger Biengarten – they all clearly have potential but just seem unfinished yet and should be tasted again on a later date. Having said that, the other 2 classified Lagenweine, Deidesheimer Maushöhle and Königsbacher Ölberg were both wonderful now, but also with potential for development. The Maushöhle appeared luscious and mouthfilling with an intense nose, creamy fruit; lots of energy and yet balanced. The Ölberg in comparison was even a tad better, a little lighter but with more finesse and complexity,gently perfumed, mineral, elegant.
Then we stepped towards the “SC” Rieslings, representing the new line with selected grapes from the 3 big locations. This new line is meant to fill the gap between the Lagenweine and the Grosse Gewächse which are released in September.
All 3 SC’s were much more powerful and intensive wines, vibrant, reminding already the GG style. Of course after the filigrane Ölberg, they seemed a bit too fat, but their purpose isn’t the same of course. Most impressively came the Königsbach SC, with clear pineapple fruit, exotic somehow,but also honey. It felt smooth and filigrane despite higher alcohol content. Really beautiful.
So these were my few impressions. Unfortunately my notes weren’t that precise and only gave a general description of the wines. I can’t wait though to retry the Maushöhle and Ölberg and produce some more detailed notes.
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