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2007 Domaine de Trévallon, VdP des Bouches du Rhône

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Domaine de Trévallon is somewhat of a cult-wine, a pioneer-wine, or even a rebel-wine. You could qualify it either way. It was pioneering winemaking in a region where winemaking seemed to die. It was one of the first wineries in France to ignore the appelation rules and label the bottles as Vin de Pays for having too much Cabernet in its Cuvée (50% Cabernet, 50% Syrah). And also, it was the first winery in France producing organic wine.

But the most pertinent reason for Eloi Durrbach‘s success probably lies in the hard work he puts into his vineyards. He does everything he can to achieve his vision of a good wine. Thus, appelation rules aren’t his priority. And maybe this is the way it should be.

( There is much more to read on the winery here and here )

The 2007 vintage was apparently one of the better. This is a statement from the winery:

Nothing would have predicted a great vintage; no exceptional weather conditions, no early spring, no hot or dry summer. But right from the start of the harvest, we noticed that the grapes had a lot of flavour and were extraordinarily rich.
After the first pressings, we were certain that the 2007 red would be powerful, rich, silky and very smooth.
It is a wine with fruit and spice.
This wine will be good as soon as it is bottled and for least another 25 years!

Having a few bottles in my cellar, I was just too curious to wait and decided to pop open a bottle of this young wine. Here are my few sketchy observations:

Beautiful dark robe with purple hue, not entirely transparent, yet very shiny. Rather thick tears on the side of the glass.
Nose is a basket of berries; could be interpreted as jammy. A slight Provence herb notes add complexity.
Palate is wrapped in silk, but tannins are there, fine grained and smooth. Opposed to Spanish jam wines, this one has a backbone even if it isn’t a coarse tannin base. Fruit basket is also there, acidity is in balance. Needs maybe a bit more cellaring although I would say it already was a pleasure to drink it.

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  1. Didier G. Said,

    I had the opportunity to taste a few vintages of this great domain and the wines get even better with age. Hold on to your remaining bottles! The 2000 blew me away with its delicious truffle aromas, yet it remained ripe like you describe it, with kirsch notes and a firm but silky texture.

    I’m getting thirsty!!

  2. Michael Quentel Said,

    Just a few weeks ago we visited Domaine Trevallon and tasted some vintages in the cellar with the very charming daughter of Elois Durrbach. 2007 extraordinary good and 1995 is at the moment at the top of the hill.

    I think this wine wasn’t a vins de pays, when Elois startet with his cuvee of 50% CS and 50% Syrah. But he was so successfull with his very good wine and the others in the area not, so they changed the allepaltion rules and Eloi could decide to change his cuvee or put “vin de pays” on his label. Because his work was so well known, he trusted in himself and his clients and didn’t changed his cuvee. I would say: well done, because his wine are real unique fingerprints of himself and the terroir of the Provence.

  3. alexis2 Said,

    Thanks for your comment Michael. And i believe you are right with that anecdote.

  4. Freestyle Half Double Blind Tasting with Friends — Blind Tasting Club Said,

    […] and it probably needs a lot of time to get there (if ever?). This also surprises me a bit since it didn’t strike me when I tasted it the first time. It will be interesting to taste it again in a few years and see how fruit and tannins get along […]

  5. Philipp Said,

    Hast du neuere Jahrgänge auch mal probiert?

    Gruss
    Ph

  6. Blindtaster Said,

    Hi Philipp. Nein, ich glaube nicht. Ich meine ich habe 1-2 Mal ältere probiert, aber keine jüngeren. VG

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